Smalltown Catalonia

I've heard that Catalonia is supposed to be the Toscana of Spain. When venturing off the main roads, I can see how this it true. Old stuff is everywhere - churches, ruins, fortress walls, cobbled buildings. Even the terraced olive groves are ridiculously old.

Beyond the age there is astounding beauty. Mountains often serve as the backdrop, coupled with rolling hills and meandering roads. Little villages are everywhere, and you really have to wonder how places so small will survive.

Ladies of the Night
When traveling by car, sometimes you find yourself in unexpected situations. And while in North America you'll find "ladies of the night" in dodgy areas, this was not the case in Catalonia. Towns in Catalonia do what everyone would love to do in North America - run them out of town. On the outer edge of town, on a main route, you'll find such a lady sitting on a chair, just waiting for some business.

Jafre

We spent two nights in a town that only has a couple of hundred people at most. Oh, and an Olympic futball pitch, along with a local futball team. We were able to walk through Jafre's streets in about an hour, and that also includes stopping to take pictures. The complete opposite of Barcelona, the main sound in the village was the church bell tolling the time.

Yes, leave your watch behind, because the bell tolls every hour and every quarter. And it doesn't stop at night. Plus there are also two extra special bells - 8am, reminding everyone to get to work; and 8pm, reminding everyone that the evening is beginning. On occasion there are even more bells for weddings, baptismals, funerals and burials.

Catalonian cooking
Our hosts offer a four-course meal plus wine for 19 euros, so there was no way we were going to pass that down. What we ate over two nights:

• Salad - European salad has a bit left to be desired, as they basically lay out the salad's fixings (tomato, cucumber, avocado, etc.) on top of the lettuce. For dressing we had a bottle each of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
• Beans and Bacon - Absolutely yummy. I wish I knew how to make it, as any dish that makes me want more beans is a keeper.
• Cream of leak soup
• Bread, Catalonian style - Take a piece of bread, rub a garlic clove on it, rub a tomato, sprinkle with olive oil and salt and there's your base. We had fresh anchovies for our topping, which I actually tried...and no, I still do not like it.
• Olives - While I don't mind them cut up in stuff, alone is still not for me.
• Beef in milk curd - A loaf of beef, simmered in a pan of milk.
• Roasted vegetables - Red peppers, sweet potatos, onions, and other types of squash.
• Roasted chicken with spices
• Ratatouille - a veggie mixutre of eggplant, peppers, zucchini, and other veggies.
• Spice cake with caramel drizzle
• Vanilla ice cream with rich chocolate