We had enough of the layed-back 'surfer' lifestyle, and were ready to find our next destination. (Especially since Pichilemu took longer to reach than expected.) So we washed off our sandy feet and headed back on the road inland, leaving the ocean behind.
The scenery is ever-changing and quite barren. It is strange to start seeing the vineyards in the midst of scrubby brush. From aways on the highway we found our first target.
Santa Cruz winery
The landscape was stunning, with the Bodega atop a hill surrounded by vineyards. It even featured an observatory! (With a gondola to get there) In the middle of nowhere, surrounded by valley and mountains, this winery sure had presence.
Driving up, the bodega was equally as impressive with a gorgeous building. Inquiring for a tasting, I soon learned the winery was in its infancy. The options were either to go on a tour or order a glass or so on their newly opened "cafeteria" (think cafe). So we ordered a couple of empanadas, while I enjoyed a nice glass of Carmenere. Easy-drinking, it wasn't anything outstanding, but paired well enough with Chilean cuisine.
Finding the Hotel
We purposely booked the hotel out-of-town, knowing I hate trying to navigate in town. Somehow we ended up in town and didn't have a detailed enough map to try and get our self out. For a town that was seemingly small on the map, it was a lot larger than expected. So we fumbled our way through, until zen driving found us on a main road with a sign to our hotel. Excellent!
Parador de la Vina
Our stay was a sight for sore eyes and was greatly welcome. Even better were things we've missed so far: bar soap, kleenex, and for the mister, shampoo/conditioner. For me: a frigobar (mini-fridge) AND wine glasses (and hair dryer to boot). All along my stay in Argentina or France/Catalonia I had never come across a mini-fridge, although it would be certainly welcome with white wines. This was the mecca of accommodations.
Trying to find lunch
Basing on our Casablanca experience I thought that wine + lunch would again be the norm. Apparently not.
Second attempt - fail
We drove along the main road to a winery I had heard before:Bisquertt. Next thing you know, we were in the town after the winery. Driving back, we noticed a major building, but no signs. WTF?! No signs means no welcome of business, so we kept on driving.
Third attempt - fail
Driving into the rural area upon a long gravel road we headed towards another known name: Caliterra. Up and down and all around when we were surrounded by grapes, signs directing us there, grape workers and some major buildings. But no entrance signs. And no indication of tourism. Seriously? We were getting frustrated.
Fourth attempt - fail
Santa Rita is a major player back home, so certainly they would be easy to find AND have a place to welcome us. Besides, it was on the wine tourism map, so it had to be welcome to us visitors.
The first was correct, as it was surrounded by vines and had a massive processing plant. But welcome us? They had a guard, who only spoke Spanish looked confused to see us. I caught enough of what he said to know that there were no tastings or tours, and they only did mass processing. (Okay, that last part was my interpretation.) Still, another disappointment.
Fifth attempt - success!
And very much so. We pulled up with no one in the parking lot, knowing that we were arriving late. The guard was once again friendly, and we were happy to know someone was there to acknowledge us. We walked in to the main building, only to be startled by someone to great us. "You are arriving late", we were told. We knew, but managed to sneak in an end-of-day tasting, with no pressure for a tour. The winery: MontGras
Our host was most amazing, with the most impeccable English. We taught each other words: we learned how to pronounce llama (ya-ma, like pi-jama). We taught him the Canadian version of toque (luckily which they were selling in their gift store). It was great fun.
The wines were good, and I ended up getting the bonus tasting spread. The Carmenere was surprisingly nice, and we discussed how some wineries picked their grapes too soon. (Ha! Such a wine nerd...) But the best was their blend, and it verified I'm such a sucker for blends.
The truth about the wine map
Our host at MontGras also provided clarification on the map. He confirmed that just because a winery is located on it, it doesn't mean you can visit it. He agreed that this doesn't make sense.
With other wineries there is a different exception: their visitors rooms were destroyed during the earthquake. MontGras was the first to re-open, but others - including Bisquertt - have not. They are still producing grapes, but they are unable to accommodate visitors.
Bites bite
I've noticed several bites, from which I don't recall any creature landing on me. Arm, shoulder, knee...wtf?! I just get frustrated from little bumps that appear from nowhere, that are now itchy. So, is it better to know you've gotten bitten - like a mozzie - or remain ignorant, like these little turds. Bites suck - period.
Dinner
At a loss for finding our exquisite lunch pairings, we head back to our hotel to settle and wait for restaurants to open for dinner. Luckily, there was one down the road that partnered with the local winery. The menu presented a challenge of selection, due to overwhelming options.
It is certainly la dolce vita!
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