Buenos Aires

(trying to catch up)

Knowing we're not big city folks, we only planned a couple of days in BA. For us, that is more than enough.

Having traveled quite a bit, seeing many cities - mainly in Europe - I can't say that BA is worth the trip. And we gave it an honest effort!

The buildings have a European flavour, but are very worn and only some are well-kept. The sidewalks are a disaster and add an extra challenge to walking. It is a big city and numerous in its people on the streets.

Have feet will walk: San Telmo to La Boca
Our first journey by foot was from San Telmo to La Boca. Judging by our host's face when we told her of our adventure, this isn't really common for tourists to do.

Now we were fully aware that going by night was highly unadvisable, but it was Sunday morning. Not many people were out and it was quite tame. Sure there were some really dodgy areas off the main road, but we weren't THAT stupid to take them.

The highlight of the trek: Roadside empanadas and passing La Boca's stadium.

La Boca
This is probably the highlight of BA. It has charm in its brightly painted buildings, but it is also a tourist trap. Cafes have sales staff in front trying to lure you in. Tango-dancers offer to pose with you for a photo, for a price of course. Still, this is the Forks of Winnipeg.

Dogs
There are a ton of dogs here in BA, which is actually a big thumbs up for us. No, they aren't skin and bones, but are well fed and looked after. In all our travels never has there been so many dogs. Go dogs!

La Defensa
On Sundays the street is closed and people pack down the street to view antique shops and booths, plus booths of other fairs. While an interesting look, the street is endless and fairs end up looking the same.

Tango
This is a beautiful dance that you can find it everywhere. Everywhere! While the initial thought was to take in a show, it just felt so commercialized and cheapened. We watched some street performers at Plaza Dorrengo and seeing the square fill with people off the street was probably the most genuine passion. Otherwise I might have been at Folklorama.

Bottom line is that I still love tango, but am disappointed at how BA has sold it out to make a quick buck.

Is that rain?
If you're walking on Florida, or in the central area of the city, odds are you have air conditioner condensation dripping on you as you're walking. At least that's what we'd hope for.

Exchanging USD
A punishing adventure, as we were told that the airport rates were not good and they were much better in the city. We had read that exchanging at a bank provided better rates and guaranteed real (ie. not counterfit) currency.

Oh the lies! While you can exchange money at the National Bank at the airport, this is the ONLY bank you can do so. We found this out after waiting over 1 hour in line to get to the teller, only to be told "no"...along with a bunch of other spanish we didn't understand.

What we've learned is that bank "service" in BA sucks and there a lot of long queues. Cambios are pretty much the only place to exchange cash, with the exception of Banco Piano. Not only did they speak some english, they were very helpful! A serious contrast in service.

Oh, and the exchange rates? Pretty much the same. Next time this way, we'd seriously consider ditching the cash and just withdrawing from an ATM.

Cheap beer
At about $3 for 1L of beer, on a hot muggy day you can't complain. And yes, for those who know me are probably wondering where the wine is. Well with this heat, certainly not in a glass in front of me!

What good food?
I had read that the pizza, steak and ice cream are above par in BA. The ice cream? Absolutely. Satisfying on a hot day and the dulce de leche is uber-yummy-rich-goodness.

The pizza? Meh. A bit of sauce, some meat, spare veggies and nothing really special.

The steak? Alright, the one tenderloin was cut with a spoon and was yummy. The chorizo? I've never seen so much fat in my life. Without joking this steak was 50% fat. The waiter said it was the best cut of the house! I can only be left to guess that the locals love their steak fat. Me? Not so much.

An honest effort
We tried to find the love for BA, but just couldn't find it. While it had its moments, all in all, it wouldn't rate in the top 10 places to visit. We searched several different areas, looked at a variety of cafes, and yet it just wasn't for us.

The last night, after our "fancy night out with fat-steak" it ended up in a torrential downpour - almost a sign that it was time to move on. And so this morning we did, happily, even though it was 3am.