Ushuaia - penguinos

Ushuaia is a pretty town, surrounded by mountains and the Beagle Channel. But unlike the other smaller towns we've visited, there's a much bigger tourist trap feel. Plus it is filled with old people, unlike the young ready-to-hike vibe we've gotten before.

The reason is that there are a ton of cruises that leave for Antarctica. And the size of the ships, they just dwarf this smaller town.

Penguinos
One reason for coming to Ushuaia is to see some penguins. We took the only tour that allows you to embark on the island and walk among the charming creatures.

First was an uber-cramped mini-bus ride, filled with mostly old tourists from Europe. The drive was long and winding, and I got the worst seat on the mini-bus. I had to open the window - even though it was probably around 10 C outside - just to give my shoulder some room. (Thankfully on the way back I was able to get a better seat just in front of the crappy one, and I heard that the younger guy who got stuck with the seat complaining just as much.)

We eventually arrived at Estancia Haliburton, ready to get on our zodiac to take us to the island. The ride was short and pleasant enough and soon we set our eyes on an island with many black and white dots.

Greeting us were penguins swimming in the water, scampering on shore, or just sleeping and minding their own business. With a slow and quiet walk we were right amongst them - you could probably get right next to one if you sat long enough. (Only the guide said we should keep a few meters away to give them their space.)

The penguins were everything I expected - cute with their waddle and shakes, awesome in their cries and general chatter, and just so trusting. If I had the chance, I could probably watch them all day.

We walked among their nesting ground, where I was surprised to learn that they actually burrow holes to nest in. Mating for life, they return to the same nest every year. First comes the male, who prepares the nest. After about a week the female comes back to inspect, and if satisfactory lay her eggs.

Apparently there is an exception clause to the "mating for life". If the male doesn't make the nest to the female's satisfaction, she will just leave the nest for another.

Now only if us ladies could just leave as easily if the male didn't do his share of the upkeep! ;)

Ushuaia
Once back to town, we wandered back to our B&B to change into cleaner clothes. After an early morning wake-up, we were lazy and took our time to go back into town to wander around and grab some food.

Unlike other towns, restaurants here close after 3pm and only open again after 8pm or so. Plus the number of restaurants was far less than we would expect for a town of this size, so we had to settle for one that was open.

Luckily it turned out really well, even though they didn't have half wine bottle sizes. So I convinced Mike to split a white Torrontes with me, and was surprised at how yummy it was.

The good life continues, even though it is at a slower pace. (Yes, it is taking some getting used to!)